Apple tree problems no apples

Apple Tree Problems: How To Get Fruit On Apple Trees

Apple trees are a great addition to any landscape, and if healthy, will provide an abundance of fresh fruit. However, from time to time, apple tree problems do occur and require attention in order to keep trees as healthy as possible. Don’t let your tree trick you. Even if it appears to be vibrant, you may occasionally wind up with an apple tree without fruit. Apple tree fruiting issues can be disconcerting to home gardeners, so learning how to get fruit on apple trees is helpful.

How to Get Fruit on Apple Trees

It goes without saying that most apple tree fruiting problems can be avoided by growing healthy trees. Obviously, a healthy apple tree will produce more fruit than a sick tree. Providing optimal conditions for your tree and sticking to a regular maintenance schedule will help your tree produce the most fruit possible.

Address all insect or disease problems promptly, as fruit size and crop yield is dramatically influenced by both insect and disease damage. If you are unsure of how to diagnose or treat insect or disease issues, contact your local Cooperative Extension Department for assistance.

When Your Healthy Apple Tree Does Not Bear Fruit

An apple tree without fruit can happen for a number of reasons. Learning more about these apple tree problems can help if your apple tree does not bear fruit.

Environmental Issues

If your apple tree is healthy but does not set fruit, it could be due to climate issues. Fruit trees require a period of cold weather to end dormancy and encourage spring budding. If the winter is mild, growth will be slow and the blooming period extended. This makes the tree susceptible to frost damage, which influences fruit production.

Pollination Problems

In order for fruit to be produced, most trees must be pollinated. Cold weather and a reduction in pollinating insects can cause trees to blossom but bear no fruit. For best results with apple trees, plant two different varieties close together for cross pollination.

Other Considerations

Some fruit trees, including apple, may bear very heavily one year and only minimally the next. This condition is known as biennial bearing and is thought to be due to the influence that a very heavy crop has on crop production the following year.

An apple tree without fruit may not be getting enough sun or water. Poor fruit production can also be caused by over fertilizing. Provide a 2 to 3 inch (5-8 cm.) layer of mulch around the tree, but not touching the trunk, for protection and moisture retention.

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Apple tree problems

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I don’t recognise the leaf problem — sorry.

However, when we planted apple trees we were told to pick all the fruit off before it got too big (ie in May) for the first three years so the tree could concentrate on making roots and getting established before using its energy on producing fruit. It was a long wait . But they now all fruit well every year.

So maybe your tree exhausted itself last year and is trying to recuperate. Might also explain the leaf drop too.

I also ensured that it was well watered (several gallons each time) through the spring and summer each year.

Even now that it’s about eight years old I watered it thoroughly over the very dry April we had, and again in July and August as the fruit were swelling.

Fruit and foliage make heavy demands for water on young roots that are still establishing and have yet to reach far down below the surface.

“I am not lost, for I know where I am. But however, where I am may be lost.” Winnie the Pooh

“I am not lost, for I know where I am. But however, where I am may be lost.” Winnie the Pooh

You’re really losing the plot now @Dovefromabove
@Dollystocks8 — if the tree’s only a year old [it’s not yet a tree ] you need to just follow the advice above re leaving it for a while to mature. Keep it well watered. The foliage is probably dried out because of that. Have you got a photo?

I think the tree in the first post has scab, or similar, of some kind — quite common in some varieties. @BobTheGardener might be able to help.

It’s a place where beautiful isn’t enough of a word.

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Information On Common Diseases Of Apple Trees

Apple trees are perhaps one of the most popular fruit trees to grow in the home garden, but are among the most prone to disease and problems as well. But, if you are aware of the most common growing problems, you can take steps to keep them away from your apple tree and the fruit, which means you can enjoy more and better apples from your trees.

Common Diseases of Apple Trees

Apple Scab – Apple scab is an apple tree disease that leaves warty, brown bumps on the leaves and fruit. It is a fungus that primarily affects trees in areas that have high humidity.

Powdery Mildew – While powdery mildew affects a great many plants, and on apple trees it can decrease the number of flowers and fruit and cause stunted growth and blemished fruit. Powdery mildew on apples will look like a velvety covering on leaves and branches. It can affect any apple variety, but some varieties are more susceptible than others.

Black Rot – Black rot apple disease can appear in one or a combination of three different forms: black fruit rot, frogeye leaf spot, and black rot limb canker.

• Black fruit rot – This form of black rot is a blossom end rot, similar to that found in tomatoes. The blossom end of the fruit will turn brown and this brown spot will spread across the whole fruit. Once the whole fruit turns brown, it will then turn black. The fruit stays firm while this occurs.
• Frogeye leaf spot – This form of black rot will appear just around the time the blossoms on the apple tree start to fade. It will appear on the leaves and will be grey or light brown spots with a purple edge.
• Black rot limb canker – These will appear as depressions on the limbs. As the canker becomes larger, the bark on the center of the canker will begin to peel away. If left untreated, the canker can completely girdle the tree and kill it.

Apple Rusts – The rust that affects apple trees is commonly called cedar apple rust, but it can be found in one of three different forms of rust fungus. These apple rusts are cedar-apple rust, cedar-hawthorn rust and cedar-quince rust. Cedar-apple rust is the most common. Rust will commonly appear as yellow-orange spots on the leaves, branches and fruit of the apple tree.

Collar Rot – Collar rot is a particularly bad apple tree problem. Initially, it will cause stunted or delayed growth and blossoming, yellowing leaves and leaf drop. Eventually a canker (dying area) will appear at the base of the tree, girdling and killing the tree.

Sooty Blotch – Sooty blotch is a non-lethal but blemishing fungus that affects the fruit of an apple tree. This apple tree disease appears as dusty black or grey spots on the fruit of the tree. While it looks unsightly, the fruit is still edible.

Flyspeck – Like sooty blotch, flyspeck also does not harm the apple tree and only causes cosmetic damage to the fruit. Flyspeck will appear as groups of small black dots on the fruit of the tree.

Fire Blight – One of the more devastating of the apple tree diseases, fire blight is a bacterial disease that affects all parts of the tree and can lead to death of the tree. Symptoms of fire blight include die back of branches, leaves and blossoms and depressed areas on the bark that will be discolored and are, in fact, areas of the branches that are dying.

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Question: Q: Catalog b tree major problem found

I have ran Norton Disk Doctor several times and the following message comes up I do not have the Norton Disk it asks me to insert to fix the problem meanwhile my computer acts slower and slower and files are everywhere. HELP. I also heard Norton Systemworks was not recommended to use on OSX is that true?
Here’s the report
Norton Disk Doctor 8.0.2 (151) Disk Examination Report
Disk: Macintosh HD
Thu, Sep 29, 2005, 2:14 AM

Major errors were found.
Some major problems were not fixed.

Check for Defective Media
This step was stopped before it completed.

Check Partition Map
No problems found.

Check Disk Information
This step was stopped before it completed.

Check Catalog Tree
This step was stopped before it completed.

A major error was found in a file record in the Catalog B-tree.
Node 20931, record 8
«temp2980128» has an incorrect data logical length.
(10,7,36)
The problem was not fixed at user request.

Check Extents Tree
No problems found.

Check Files
This step was stopped before it completed.

Check System Folder
This step was stopped before it completed.

System Information for the Boot Disk
System Version: 10.3.9
Owner Name: Daria Brill
Machine Name: Daria Brill’s Computer
Boot Volume: Macintosh HD
Processor: PowerPC G4 400 MHz
Built-in Memory: 448 MB
32-Bit Addressing: Yes
Logical RAM: 2 GB
ROM Version: N/A

Disk Information for: Macintosh HD
Volume Size: 9.6 GB
Allocation Blocks start at sector: 0
Allocation Block Size: 4K
Mounted: Yes
Driver Installed: Yes
Partition Map Style: New style (IM V)
Partition Size: 9.6 GB
Media Type: ATA Device
Total Sectors of the device: 20066251
Physical Sector Size: 512 bytes
Partition Name:
Partition Type:
Partition Valid: Yes
Is HFS/HFS+ Partition: Yes
Partition Number: 0
Total Partitions: 10
Starting Sector of Partition: 0
Number of Sectors in Volume: 0

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23 Common Apple Tree Problems & How To Fix Them

Posted on September 22, 2020

There are few fall pleasures as profound as biting into a homegrown apple. However, apple trees cause far more than their fair share of stress for any home growers.

This classic fruit grows from grafts, which means that every individual tree within a variety is a clone of all the others.

Identical genetic material from one generation to the next means the trees can’t evolve, which gives pests and diseases a clear advantage for outcompeting the fruit.

In other words, you need to work extra hard to keep your crop safe.

While apple trees are notorious for their disease and pest problems, most can be overcome with care and diligence. Familiarize yourself with the common apple tree problems below, and follow these tips to prevent them.

Apple Pest Problems

Organic apple growers should expect to deal with maggots, worms, beetles, aphids, and more. Here are some of the signs of insect damage and how to combat them.

1. There are bumpy blemishes on the surface of the fruit that don’t go beneath the skin.

Your apples likely have capsid bugs. These small green insects overwinter in leaf litter and feed on leaves and developing fruit in the spring. Though they can render the apple skin slightly tough, the damage won’t affect the flavor.

If the infestation seems minimal, you can ignore the bugs this season and clean up the leaf litter in the fall to reduce next year’s population.

2. The apples look fine on the outside but have maggoty spots.

You probably have codling moths. During the caterpillar stage, these bark-colored insects will bore holes to the apple core, fill the void with excrement known as fross, and leave the fruit to rot. It’s possible to lose 90% or more of your harvest to them.

Damage inside an apple caused by codling moth.

The best way to protect your fruit is to control the moth’s population. Pluck off any caterpillars you see on tree leaves and consider bagging your fruit as it forms. Codling moths tend to overwinter in leaf litter, so you can control their populations by keeping the orchard floor clean.

3. The apple leaves are curled and distorted with black sticky patches.

This is classic aphid damage and is typically most noticeable on the underside of apple leaves. Aphids on their own aren’t likely to cause much damage to your apple crop, though you can use insecticidal soap to control them.

4. The apple branches have developed white fluffy areas.

This sounds like a woolly aphid infestation, especially if the fluff is restricted to stems and branches. While these insects aren’t likely to cause much damage to your tree on their own, they encourage other infections like canker that can cause more severe issues.

You can spot treat the infected areas with neem oil or insecticidal soap, or prune out the infected limbs altogether.

5. The trees have curled leaves and produce only stunted fruits that aren’t fully formed at the base

This is often a sign that rosy apple aphids feasted on the young fruits in the spring, which deformed and stunted their growth.

There’s not much you can do once you see the damage, so early control is critical. Your best option is to monitor your trees closely and spray insecticidal soap on the site of any outbreaks. Natural aphid predators like ladybugs can also help keep populations in check.

6. Your fully ripened fruit has a ribbon scar across the skin.

This is typically an indicator of the apple sawfly. These insects lay eggs in the developing fruit, and they hatch and live in the core until fall. At this point, they tunnel through the skin, leaving a scar at the base, and bury themselves in the soil to hibernate.

You can stop the cycle from repeating by destroying any infected windfalls so that the larvae don’t make it into soil and breed the following year.

7. Your apples are misshapen with lumpy indents and insect holes.

The likely culprit is the plum curculio. This small weevil can cause serious damage early in the growing season by feeding on the buds, flowers, and early set fruit. Adult females cut a hole in the fruit into which she lays her eggs, and the larva feast on the fruit before reaching maturity and exiting.

Though this rarely destroys the fruit, it can lead to unsightly blemishes. Treating your trees with insecticide early in the season can help, as can removing any damaged apples as soon as you see them and preventing windfalls from rotting under trees.

Plum Curculio damage

Apple Disease Problems

Fungus problems are all too familiar for apple growers, and they can be challenging to control.

Your best option is to know the early signs of these diseases so that you can address problems before you need to take out the entire tree.

8. Brown spots have appeared on the bottom of the fruit that grow large enough to cover the whole apple (this can happen on the tree or in storage).

This sounds like black rot (Botryosphaeria obtuse), a major apple disease across the United States. The decay starts as dark concentric circles at the bottom of the apple and will eventually spoil the whole fruit.

Tree leaves often show indications of it with bright yellow circles known as frog eye leaf spot, and the disease will eventually spread to limbs where it can kill the whole tree.

The best way to combat black rot is to remove all signs of it immediately. Prune out all infected limbs and leaves, and discard them far away from your trees so the fungus can’t return.

9. Your tree shows decay near the roots and on the bark.

It likely has crown rot, a soil-borne fungus leads to leaf and bark discoloration, as well as slower budding. This fungus favors wet conditions and is almost impossible to eradicate once it gets established.

As crown rot with eventually kill your tree, the best way to avoid it is to plant in in places with good drainage.

10. There are ugly brown circular patches on the apples that create lesions in their flesh.

Apple scab is a fungal disease (venuria inaequalis) that can wreck your crop because it creates lesions for brown rot to enter the fruit.

You might notice it in the early spring as sooty lesions on the underside of the leaves, and it will spread through the rain. Infected leaves may curl up and fall off, and the fruit will have dark, scabby lesions.

As the fungus won’t affect the fruit’s flavor, you can peel off the damaged skin and use as normal.

Prevent a future outbreak by removing infected leaves from the orchard in the fall. It’s also a good idea to plant resistant varieties, including Crimson Crisp, Gold Rush, and Mac-Free.

11. A disfigured trunk with sunken, dead patches. This usually occurs around wounds.

Your tree has apple canker, a fungal disease (neonectria ditissima) that attacks the bark and creates sunken, dead areas. Cankers form in the spring, and they can kill off entire branches.

You’re more likely to deal with canker in heavy wet soils, and it’s best to control it by cutting off branches as soon as you see signs of infection.

12. The apple leaves and branches are covered in a light white powder and are starting to shrivel.

You might recognize these symptoms from squash plants, as your apples likely have powdery mildew (podosphaera leucotricha). Though it won’t kill the tree, it can weaken it over time.

As with most fungi, it overwinters in infected leaves, so keeping the orchard floor clean in the fall will lead to less risk the following spring. You should also ensure that your trees get good airflow and are appropriately spaced to not create wet conditions for fungi to thrive.

Powdery mildew resistant varieties include Liberty and Gold Rush.

13. The fruit has developed dull black sooty blotches and tiny specks over the skin

This is usually a sign of multiple conditions that together form a disease complex known as SBFS—sooty blotch flyspeck.

While it can overwinter on the tree limbs, it’s not likely to cause serious problems or harm the fruit. Maintaining good airflow will reduce its spread, but if you can deal with the spots cosmetically, you’re best off leaving it.

14. Your fruit has depressed, large lesions that look like bruises.

White rot, also called bot rot (Botryosphaeria dothidea) is a fungus that affects apple fruit and wood with small circular spots that eventually turn orange and peel from the tree.

This fungus can cause severe problems to late-season fruit, so you should apply organic fungicides from the spring on if you expect it to be an issue.

Prune out any infected wood and remove leaf litter and mummified fruit from branches in late fall.

15. The tree branches are turning brown, dying back, and forming “shepherd’s crook” shapes.

Your tree has fire blight, a destructive bacterial disease that is challenging to control.

Your best option is prevention (avoid nitrogen fertilizer, maintain good airflow, and avoid pruning during the blossom season) and removing any infected plant material at least twelve inches below the damaged site.

You should also disinfect your pruning tools between cuts with a 10% bleach solution to slow the spread.

16. The apple leaves have lesions and orange-reddish spots, and the tree has large, vibrant-orange growths.

Cedar apple rust (Gymnosporangium clavipes) can cause problems for apple trees. It requires host plants like flowering quince shrubs and cedar trees before it can spread, but it can quickly defoliate your orchard.

Your best strategy is to remove host plants and to plant resistant cultivars like Redfree, William’s Pride, and Freedom whenever possible.

17. Your tree’s leaves have yellow or cream-colored spots in the early spring.

This is a likely sign of the apple mosaic virus, which kills off infected leaves by midsummer and will stunt your harvest. Though most varieties are susceptible, it’s common with Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, and Jonathan varieties.

As there’s no known treatment, you should remove any infected trees from the orchard to prevent spread.

18. The apple fruit is forming black, sunken lesions

This sounds like black pox (Helminthosporium papulosum), a fungus that thrives in wet conditions and the bark of old trees. It’s most common in warmer climates and will destroy infected fruit. Apply fungicides when you see signs of contamination and maintain good airflow throughout the orchard.

19. Your trees have wilting leaves and withered blossoms.

Blossom Wilt (monilinia laxa) is a fungal disease that affects apples, pears, and stone fruits. Both the flowers and nearby leaves dry up and wither, usually before they can be fertilized. Any surviving fruit will turn brown and rot.

Fungicides can prevent the worst of the damage, and you should always remove infected leaves and flowers as you see them.

Apple Environment Problems

Sometimes the problems with your apple trees come down to planting conditions. Learning the environmental factors that can affect your orchard will help you combat problems before they ruin your harvest.

20. The fruit has a ring of russeting (similar to potato skin) near the base.

This is usually a sign of frost damage when the tree was first fruiting and doesn’t have any negative consequences for the fruit itself. Russeting is actually normal for some apple cultivars.

21. There is cracked skin surrounding the apple.

This is usually caused by uneven watering. Heavy rains after a dry period will cause the apple to expand quickly and can crack the skin.

22. The apple skin has brown, pin-sized marks on the skin and throughout the flesh, and it tastes bitter.

Your fruit has bitter pit, which is usually a sign of calcium deficiency due to drought conditions or irregular watering. You can improve your crop for next year by mulching around the trees to help the roots retain moisture and watering more consistently.

23. Small dimples are forming on the skin of your apples.

This is a sign of cork spot. While it looks similar to insect damage, this condition is another sign of calcium deficiency. The fruit will still taste fine, but many people prefer to cut out the dimples.

You can restore your soil’s pH by adding lime around the base of the tree. It’s also smart to spray each tree with a solution of 1.5 tablespoons of calcium chloride per gallon of water up to four times per growing season.

Combat Common Apple Tree Problems with Careful Monitoring

Hopefully, this guide gives you a starting point for keeping your apple trees in peak condition for better harvests.

A bounty of apples can be put to many uses around the homestead, from hard apple cider to various other preservation strategies. You can also use both ripe and unripe windfalls to maximize your harvest.

If you’re looking for more guidance on growing healthy apple trees, I recommend Michael Phillip’s book, The Apple Grower: A Guide for the Organic Orchardist.

Here, Phillips distills his decades of organic growing experience into a straightforward guide that will help you maximize your harvests without harsh chemical treatments.

It’s been a stellar resource for me as I restore the old apple trees on my hobby farm, and I expect orchardists at all levels will find it valuable.

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